CHAPTER NO -6
1.
Get in the car and put on your seatbelt
2.
Put the key in
the ignition and turn all the way until the engine starts
3.
Put the clutch pedal down (this the pedal on the
left)
4.
Move the gear stick
into first gear
5.
Use your right
foot to press
down on the accelerator gently to increase
the engine’s revs very
slightly
6.
Slowly lift the clutch pedal
using your left foot until
it starts to vibrate gently
7.
This vibration is known as the
car’s “bite point” - this is where
the clutch plates
start to come together.
8.
Remove the handbrake and the car should
start to move slowly
9.
Increase the
revs while slowly raising your foot off the clutch
unit you are moving
forward with only the use
of the accelerator pedal
Remember - if you’re
too quick lifting your foot off the clutch, or don’t give it
enough revs, the car will stall: that’s
where the engine cuts out and the red lights
glow on the dashboard.
If you stall apply the brakes,
turn the engine
off, return the gear
stick to neutral
and begin the process again.
DRIVING AIDS AND CONTROLS
Start the engine and when engine reached operating temp, pressed the
clutch pedal fully with left foot.
Changed the gear with the help of gear lever. Released the clutch lever
gradually and pressed the accelerator
pedal with right foot. There should be a sequence between pressing of accelerating and releasing of clutch
pedal. If the clutch pedal is released fast or accelerator pedal is pressed
more engine will not move smoothly.
To stop the brake,
brake pedal is depressed with right foot. Brake pedal is installed between
clutch pedal and accelerator pedal
To stop the
brake, brake pedal is depressed according to requirement. To stop the vehicle released the accelerator pedal and pressed
the brake pedal gradually and when the vehicle speed decreased at the rate of 20km/ hour pressed the clutch pedal
with left foot and applied brake fully to stop the vehicle.
Note do not abruptly pressed the brake pedal
it will not only injured you and
other passenger of vehicle but also damaged the vehicle parts
When driving
a car with a manual transmission, always
activate the parking
brake before you exit the car, as there’s no parking pawl here.
Regardless of the parking brake type, always make sure your foot is on
the brake pedal when you manually
release the brake pedal. With lever-type brakes, press the button and drop the
lever down. With buttons, press
the button. With switches, flip it in the instructed
direction.
On certain modern cars with electronic parking brakes, they will
automatically release if you are seated, buckled in, in Drive or Reverse, and hit the gas pedal.
When you put a car with an automatic transmission into park, a device
called a parking pawl locks up the
transmission so that the car cannot move. Technically, this is enough to keep
your car in place, and we’d be lying if we said we always
used a parking brake on automatic cars.
However, using the parking brake with automatic cars can protect the
transmission. If you park the car
with your foot on the brake, activate
the parking brake, then set the transmission into park, the weight of the vehicle will be on your parking brake
rather than the transmission. Some people say this
is a priority, others are indifferent. As always, better safe than
sorry.
Gears allow a car to be driven with the minimum strain on
the engine. Modern cars usually have five
forward and one reverse gear, although some cars now have a sixth forward which
gives greater fuel economy when
driving at higher speeds over longer
distances.
·
Release the accelerator pedal and at the same time
press the clutch pedal down.
·
Remove your left hand from the steering wheel, cup it around the gear knob and
move the lever gently
but positively from one position to another.
·
Return your left hand to the steering wheel.
·
Release the clutch pedal slowly and
simultaneously apply power by
pressing down on the accelerator pedal.
·
Whilst changing gear you must always keep your eyes on
the road. The sound of the engine can tell
you when you need to change gear. As you accelerate
the engine will come to
sound whiny and take on a higher
pitch. This is because the engine is reaching its limits for the
gear you are in. When you hear
this you should change up.
The low gears
provide lots of acceleration but run out of steam before the vehicle is moving
very quickly. The high gears provide the speed but not the acceleration.
For a smooth
ride you should avoid "snatching" (changing gear with too much
force). To make the gear change smoother, let the gearshift pause for a second as it crosses the neutral zone.
During driving follow the following
rules
·
Choose the right gear for the speed you need to travel
at, and for the road conditions you face.
·
Change gear smoothly, safely and under
control.
·
Return your hand to the steering wheel once you have changed
gear.
·
Don't look at the
gear lever while changing gear.
·
Don't coast with the clutch
pedal down or the
gear lever in neutral.
In order to be able to
have control of the car, the driver
must be sitting in the correct comfortable position in
relation to his size.
• When
turning, hand in the direction you are going should pull down; the other hand
allowing the wheel to pass
through it, if necessary, the other hand can
help by pushing the wheel
upward.
• When transferring from one lane to another,
or when pulling
in after overtaking, the turn should
be gradual and never a sudden swerve which
may result in skidding.
• A firm, not a tight, grip on the wheel is all
that is needed. Never grip
tightly on a greasy road.
• Do not move the wheel to and from while driving;
a firm straight steer is better.
• Both elbows
should be free from obstruction. Never rest eh left elbow on the window frame while
driving.
• Never drive off without
first having made sure that the seat, mirror, doors windows, etc., are properly adjusted.
Mirrors allow you to observe what is happening around your car. They are
your most important visual driving
aid, and are vital for safe driving. Their purpose is to let you know what is happening behind, which is just as
important as knowing what is happening in front. You must use your car mirrors frequently, and respond safely to what
you see in them.
Mirrors should be used regularly and must
be aware of the presence of others in there blind spots. always use of mirrors before signaling, changing
direction, changing speed and as part of the mirror man oeuvre routine.
When using your mirrors, do not take your eyes off the road in front for
any length of time. A quick glance
should be sufficient, if it is not, then a series of short glances is preferred
to taking your eyes off the road ahead.
The faster you are travelling the earlier and more frequent
your mirror checks
need to be.
If you have to speed up, slow down, change direction, turn, indicate or
stop, or if you are approaching any hazard
that may cause you to do of
these, you must check your mirrors.
Adjust the inside mirror so you can see the entire rear window from the
driver’s seat. You should have to move
only your eyes, not your head, when using this
mirror.
To adjust the driver’s side-view mirror, place your head against the left
side window and set the mirror so you can just barely see the side of the car
in the mirror’s right side.
To adjust the passenger’s side-view mirror, position your head so that it
is just above the center console. Set
the mirror so you can just barely see the side of the car in the left side of
the mirror. If the vehicle is not
equipped with remove mirror-adjustment controls, you may need assistance when properly positioning this mirror. Before
driving with these updated mirror
settings, see how they work while your vehicle is parked
Your signal lets other drivers,
cyclists, and pedestrians know your intentions. You must give a proper
turn signal at least 100 meter
before turning or changing lanes.
·
Signal early. Signal well before you turn.
·
Signal continuously. You need
both hands on the
wheel to turn safely.
·
Do not forget
to turn off your turn signal
after you have turned (if you do not have self cancelling signals).
·
Use your turn signal when changing lanes.
Change lanes slowly and smoothly.
Adjust the seat height up until
your hips are at least as high as your knees.
Make sure you can still see the road and the instruments.
Make sure you are not so high so that you have to bend your head down or
to the side in order to see.
If you are still
too low after adjusting to the maximum height, try adding a cushion or wedge to the seat. Cushions
also decrease vibrations from the road which have been shown to contribute to injuries.
Next adjust
the seat forwards
so you can reach and completely depress
all the foot pedals without
your back moving away from the back of the seat. Make sure you have a
small bend in your knees of at
least 20-30 degrees- having your knees too straight can cause knee pain.
Your feet should be relaxed with your heels on the floor and the balls of
the feet able to press the pedals.
The right foot should be able to move easily between the accelerator and brake
pedal when the heel is placed roughly in
front of the brake pedal.
The left foot should be resting on the footrest whenever you are not
using the clutch, as this increases
support to both the pelvis and back. In this respect, automatic cars have an
inherent advantage over manual cars.
A horn is
a sound-making device
that can be equipped
to motor vehicles, buses, bicycles, trains, trams (otherwise known as streetcars
in North America), and other types of vehicles............... The
driver uses the
horn to warn others of the vehicle's approach or presence, or to call attention
to some hazard.
Use only while your vehicle is moving and you need to warn other road users of your presence. Never sound your horn
aggressively. You must not use your horn:
while stationary on the
road
when driving in a built-up area between the hours of 11.30 pm and 7.00
am, except when another road user poses a danger
Once you have the vehicle in reverse gear, it is time to drive backwards.
At this point, you can turn around
and release the brake slowly. In addition, you want to avoid going too fast, so
do not press the gas pedal unless you
need to. Focus on where you are going and use the brake to slow your progress
if you start going too fast.
Step 1: Look around. Make sure the area around your vehicle is clear of
pedestrians or other moving vehicles. This requires you to scan the area all around
your vehicle.
Turn to the right and look outside
the driver's side window, even looking over your
right shoulder if needed. Continue
to scan the area until you are
looking over your left
shoulder.
Once you are sure the area is clear, you can proceed.
Step 2: Look over your right shoulder. Keep your left
hand on the middle of the steering wheel while
while placing your right hand on the back of the passenger's seat, and look
over your right shoulder.
If needed, you can apply the brake at any time during the reversing
process and scan the area for foot or vehicle traffic
again to make sure no one is coming.
Step 3: Steer the vehicle. Using your left hand only, steer the vehicle
while you drive in reverse. Keep in
mind that when driving in reverse, turning the steering wheel turns your
vehicle in the opposite direction as it does when driving forward.
If you turn the front wheels to the right, the back of the vehicle turns
left. The same goes for turning right while backing, which requires you to turn
the steering wheel to the left.
Do not make any drastic turns while driving in reverse. Incremental moves
of the steering wheel allow you to
correct your course more easily than sharp turns. Use the brake as needed and
avoid giving too much, if any, gas.
You can also turn and look over your left shoulder if needed. This allows
you to get a better view when
turning to the right. Just make sure to also look in the opposite direction to
make sure nothing is coming.
Step 3: Stop the vehicle. Once you have reached your desired position, it
is time to stop the vehicle. This
simply requires you to use the brake.
Once the vehicle is stopped, you can
either put it in park, or into
drive if you need to drive forward.
Driving in reverse gear is simple when you follow the steps provided
above. As long as you maintain
control of your vehicle and drive slowly, you should have no problem backing up
your vehicle to where you need to
park or stop. Ensure that your mirrors and brakes work properly by having one of the expert mechanics at Your
Mechanic perform a 75-point safety inspection on your vehicle.
CHAPTER NO -5
Starting of an Engine.
To start the cold petrol engine rich air fuel mixture
is needed. Choke
valve is used to provide
this rich mixture. Choke
valve is fitted between air cleaner and main discharge nozzle when the choke valve
is closed main discharge nozzle provides rich mixture to the
engine.
In case of manual choke driver pulls a knob and choked the throttle valve. In case of automatic choke, choke valve closed after the few minute of ignition switch off
A glow plug is a heating element that heats incoming fuel and air to
encourage efficient fuel combustion
in a diesel engine. The fuel combustion starts your engine so that
you can drive. Each cylinder
of your engine has one glow plug, either in the pre-chamber (pre-chambered engines)
or in the combustion chamber (direct-injection engines).
Glow plugs
continue to be heated for approximately 3 minutes after the engine has been
started. This extended glow plug
operating time helps to complete
the combustion process
and to decrease noise output
as the combustion chambers heat up.
The battery
light on your car dashboard signals a charging problem with your car battery.
If the light turns and stays on, it might be that your alternator isn't generating enough voltage to charge it. Common causes can be
a broken alternator belt, damaged
battery cells or a failed alternator.
1. Lock – First Position
It is the first position
of the ignition switch. The manufacturers describe lock as the
OFF position. You have to rotate the
key clockwise to turn on the ignition switch. The lock position is to insert the keys only. There is no
effect on the steering wheel or other accessories in the lock position. You can take the keys out only
in the lock position. You have to rotate the key clockwise to turn on
the ignition switch.
Wondering what does acc stand for in cars ignition system? It is the accessory mode. You can use some of the standard accessories in this mode. Accessory or Acc is the second position in the ignition switch. Acc gives life to the radio, stereo, power windows, and seats.
The next one is the ignition position. All the electronic accessories
come active when you turn on the ignition
switch in this mode. According
to the expert maintenance tips, the ON position
is the default position in vehicles. You cannot remove the
keys out from the ignition switch.
Now you can crank the engine. It is not the stopping position of the ignition system. The keys move back to ON or ignition, which is the
default position. The motor starter might damage if you stop the keys here for long. Let the keys turn
to default position once the engine
starts.
The warm up time
is considered as the time taken for the coolant temperature to reach the minimum coolant temperature of a
well-functioning engine, which is around 80 °C. The idle test is conducted in cold-start condition to
have extra information on warm up and fuel consumption of a non-moving vehicle.
Oil pressure light is a warning light which indicate either the
lubrication system is working properly
or not. When the driver switch on, the oil pressure light turn on and when the
engine start oil pressure of oil pump
switch off the oil pressure switch.
Oil pressure switch is fitted on oil filter body or main gallery. If the
lubrication system of vehicle is not working properly, lubrication system light
turn on again after engine start. In this case stop the engine and check the lubrication
system of vehicle.
Battery charging light indicates the
faults in charging system. when the driver switch on the ignition switch charging light glow and when the engine starts
charge light off if indicates that charging
system is working properly and if there is
faults in charging system in this case charging
lingt does not off after the engine start. In this case stop the engine check
the fan belt and charging
system of vehicle.
Check engine light
A check engine
light or malfunction indicator lamp (MIL), is a tell-tale that a computerized engine-management system uses to indicate a malfunction. Found
on the instrument panel of most automobiles, it usually bears the
legend engine, check engine, service engine soon, maintenance required, and when illuminated, it is typically an
amber or red color.
The light
generally has two stages: steady (indicating a minor fault) and flashing
(indicating a severe fault). When
the MIL is lit, the engine control unit stores a fault code related to the malfunction, which can be retrieved—although
in many models this requires the use of a scan
tool. This warning light can indicate almost anything from a loose gas cap to a serious knock in the engine.
When an
unfamiliar noise starts coming from somewhere under the hood, people get scared. They may not know enough about complex engine systems to know if
it’s something to worry about or not.
Let’s discuss some of the source areas mechanics find to be the most common places
for engine noises to originate from
Valve and
hydraulic lifter noise has a clicking sound that usually quiets down as you
raise the engine RPM’s. A lifter is
what opens and closes intake and exhaust valves. These noises can be caused by worn or sticking hydraulic
lifters. Sticking lifters in most cases is caused by a varnish build up on the lifter surfaces. They may also be caused by low oil pressure (which would cause a hydraulic lifter to collapse).
Sticking lifter problems can many times be solved by adding a detergent additive to the oil. If this doesn’t do away with the noise, then the worn lifters that continue to make noise would require replacement. This is not an easy or cheap job and will need to be done by a trained auto repair technician.
Many of the
newer engines have overhead camshafts with longer timing chains. A timing chain connects the crankshaft to the camshaft to
insure the valves open at the proper time. The slack in these chains is usually kept tight by hydraulic tensioners. The chains ride against a nylon guide (a
chain guide) which, in time, begins to wear. At the point where the chain
guides are worn beyond the ability of the hydraulic
tensioner to take up the slack, the timing chain begins to rattle.
This noise is caused by the timing chains becoming so loose that they whip back
and forth against the guides and
possibly the timing cover.
If the oil pressure is correct, replacement of the hydraulic tensioners and chain guides would be required. A mechanic’s stethoscope is a great tool to pinpoint this noise. If the noise is loudest when touching the timing cover with the stethoscope disassembly would be required to confirm and to repair the problem. This is a semi major job for most of these engines and would usually cost in the four digit range.
You usually hear this noise when accelerating the vehicle. Most people call this a pinging or rattling sound. This noise is caused by an air/fuel mixture in the engine cylinder being ignited prematurely by the heat of compression as the piston is moving up on the compression stroke. If ignition happens before the piston reaches the top of its stroke, this is called pre-ignition or pre- detonation, which can damage the pistons, valves and connecting rods. They get damaged because the fuel igniting too early produces pressure waves from the fuel’s explosion in the cylinder, which collide with the cylinder as it’s moving up. And that’s also why you hear the pinging and rattling noises.
Some of the
causes of this condition are improper fuel octane, engine overheating, improper ignition timing, the EGR valve not
functioning properly and problems with the computer or knock sensor. All these conditions can cause the air fuel
mixture in the cylinders to ignite before it’s supposed
to. This creates
multiple flame fronts
in the cylinder fighting each other and causing
the pinging and rattling noise. Check your owner’s manual to make sure you’re
using the right grade of fuel. Or
you can switch to a higher grade for a period and see if the noise goes away. If it doesn’t, you’ll want
to look at these other possible causes.
Connecting rod noise is caused by excessive clearance between the crankshaft and the connecting rod bearing surface. This happens when you have low oil pressure causing the bearing to run dry of lubrication, which in turn will damage the bearing and crankshaft surfaces. This can also be caused by poor maintenance practices such as not changing oil at a regular interval. The oil gets dirty and grit can wear the surface of the bearings. The noise you hear is a knock that is heard towards the bottom of the engine. The noise is usually heard when you hold the throttle at a steady RPM. If it sounds like a single knock, you (or your mechanic) can isolate the cylinder by disabling the spark or the fuel injector for each cylinder one at a time. When the noise goes away or gets much quieter, you have found the problem. Problems like this require immediate attention because continued running of the engine in this condition will damage the crankshaft and require a major engine overhaul. The rule of thumb is, once you hear the noise there is a high probability you will need major engine work in the four figure cost range.
Crankshaft bearing noise is also caused by low oil pressure which damages the bearing surfaces and could eventually damage the crankshaft itself. This type of noise is usually described as a rumbling or thumping sound deep in the engine when accelerating. If this sound is heard, it is extremely important that the engine not be run again until the oil pan is removed and the crankshaft bearings are inspected. In many cases the engine can be saved if the crankshaft is not damaged. A mechanic will fix the problem by replacing the bearings and solving the oil pressure problem. Bearing shells are what the crankshaft rotates within. If you continue to run the engine with this condition, you will most certainly cause a major engine failure. It is also a high possibility that when you hear the noise it may be too late to save it without removing the engine. This can be an expensive repair in the four figure cost range.
This noise is
caused by excessive clearance between the piston skirt and the cylinder wall,
and is usually found on high mileage
vehicles. The usual cause of this problem is cracks in the lower piston skirt. The piston skirt is the
lower part of the piston which will develop cracks over time due to metal fatigue. The noise sounds
like a muffled bell sound or a hollow clatter deep in the engine and is more noticeable when the
engine is cold. If the noise goes away when the engine warms up, nothing
needs to be done. The clearance is reduced by the expansion of the piston
skirt as the engine comes up to temperature, and in many cases the noise
goes away completely. If the noise is reduced when the engine temperature rises but does not go away, then replacing
the piston
itself would be the most likely remedy. There is really nothing you can do to
prevent this problem and, luckily, it’s
not as serious a repair job as
some of the ones above.
Piston pin noise is similar to valve train noise. The noise is unique because
you will hear a double knocking sound caused by the lack
of oil and excessive clearance between the piston pin and the piston. A piston pin attaches the connecting rod to the
piston. It is lubricated by oil which is sprayed onto the pin through a hole in the opposing cylinder’s connecting rod.
This condition
can only be remedied by replacing the piston pin bushings, possibly even the piston itself, along with solving the oil
pressure or lubrication problem. Problems like this are usually a result of worn connecting
rod and crankshaft bearings which
reduces oil pressure. If you have this problem, it will result in major engine work in the four figure
cost range.
A whining noise when an engine is running is usually an indication of a
bearing that is on the verge of failure.
This noise will increase as the engine RPMs increase.
Remember,
though, that there are multiple places in the engine where bearings are used.
Thus, there are several items under
the hood that can make this kind of whining sound. The water pump, air conditioner clutch bearing
(which will only be heard when the compressor is not engaged), fan belt idler pulleys or belt tensioner, alternator
and the power steering pump – these are all possible sources for whining sounds indicating future bearing failure.
Whining from
the power steering pump will get louder
when turning the steering wheel from side
to side and the usual cause is low power steering fluid. The best way to
diagnose the other bearing noises is
with a mechanic’s stethoscope. Failure to repair any one of the items making a whining sound can result in a vehicle
break down. Not only that, but other engine components can be damaged when parts with bearings eventually come apart.
So it’s a smart idea to get this kind of problem checked out. Spend a little
money now to save a lot
of money later.
Why is my car stalling?
So what causes car stalling problems? Car engines quit because of a variety if issues around air flow, fuel or mechanics. Some common reasons for motor vehicle stalls include:
·
An empty gas tank
·
A fuel mixture
that isn't rich enough (this is usually the cause of cold
stalling and intermittent stalling)
·
A faulty fuel pump,
alternator or EGR valve
·
A dead battery
·
A dirty air filter that's preventing good airflow
·
Low fuel pressure (if your car only stalls on inclines
this may be the case)
·
Problems with releasing the clutch (manual
transmission vehicles only)
·
Coolant sensor reading hot
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